Aizu-Wakamatsu
We had a few days in this town before heading to the snowfields of ALTS Bandai. Doing a bit of research, we came across some interesting places to visit in Aizu-Wakamatsu.
Place of Byakkotai “White Tiger Force” Harakiri
During the Boshin Civil war, the Byakkotai second brigade, consisting of twenty 16-17 year old boys retreated to the mouth of Tonokuchi-hara, through the secret Takizawa pass. They arrived on Iimoriyama, and from the mouth of the pass saw the tower of Tsurugajo castle engulfed in black smoke. “As the castle falls, so shall we for our lord” said the boys, and with that they committed ritual suicide. Only one of the 20 boys, named Iinuma Sadakichi, attempted suicide too, but was unsuccessful and survived. This place has become well known for the story of the loyalty and tragedy of the Byakkotai Brigade. Twice a year, in the spring and autumn, a memorial service and sword dance is held to comfort the spirits of the dedicated Byakkotai.
After the war, their bodies remained exposed to the elements until permission was finally granted by the imperial government to bury them. A memorial was later erected at Iimori Hill, and all 20 of the Byakkotai members are buried there. 19 gravestones mark the place where the boys were buried. After his death, Iinuma Sadakichi’s ashes were spread on Mount Iimori together on the buried graves of his Byakkotai comrades.
An irrigation weir and cave nearby, drawing its water from lake Inawashiro and cave is the cave where the tragedy of the 20 White Tigers took place.
Sazaedo Temple 会津さざえ堂 (円通三匝堂)
A unique temple with a double spiral staircase and no floors. The building, the oldest of its kind, has been designated an Important Cultural Property.
Appearances can be deceiving. From the outside, this pagoda-like temple seems much like any other. But when you enter, you will discover the unique feature of Aizu Sazaedo, where two sets of stairways spiral like the shell of a sea snail, hence its name, Sazaedo or Sea Snail Temple. Its construction is so ingenious that those going up will never meet others going back down.
The term entsu sansodo, meaning “to make three full turns,” refers to the spiral journey up and down. Along the way, devotees would pray at 33 statues of the Buddhist goddes of mercy, Kannon.
The journey up and down the temple is supposed to represent the Saigoku Kannon Pilgrimage to 33 Buddhist temples, which is represented by 33 statues of Kannon along the way.
Higashiyama Onsen 東山温泉
An area with a lot of Onsen hotels, many have their best days well behind them, some are left in disrepair. The stream flowing in the center has a few waterfalls and is quite picturesque.
Aizu Bukeyashiki 会津武家屋敷
This sprawling complex of rooms served as residences for the samurai’s family, servants, and guests. The Aizu Samurai Mansion, also known as Bukeyashiki, is one of the most complete complexes of its kind anywhere in Japan.
The Aizu Samurai Mansion is a wonderful example of a residence for a samurai, especially one as senior as the chief retainer. The last resident of the Aizu Samurai Mansion was Saigo Tanomo, and as befitting someone of his status, there are expansive rooms and a beautifully kept garden.
While the residence burned to the ground during the Boshin Civil War in 1868, conservationists were able to build an exact replica due to highly detailed blueprints that survived.
Tsuruga-jō 鶴ヶ城
When the castle was constructed nearly 600 years ago, it was just a traditional Japanese building. However, many famous Japanese military commanders successfully ruled the castle, as it was a key castle located at the center of the Tohoku Area. Around 400 years ago, the castle tower was built, and the castle was officially named “Tsurugajo Castle” . During the Boshin Civil War that occurred at the end of the E do Period, many Aizu citizens were held inside the castle as it was relentlessly attacked by the Meiji government army for a period of one month. Eventually, the Aizu clan was forced to surrender After the Meiji Period in 1874, Tsurugajo Castle, which was once called impregnable, was completely torn down, except for the stone walls surrounding the perimeters.
The current castle tower was rebuilt in 1965. During Restauration in 2011, the roof tiles were replaced with red coloured ones as the original used to be.
Besides the attractions above in Aizu-Wakamatsu, there are of course many other temples, shirnes and some beautiful hiking trails between them.
Hoshino Alts Bandai Resort
5 days in the snowfields. On arrival, the resort looked not very inviting in regards to skiing. Lots of green fields, some visible runs with dirt patches, making them unsuitable for skiing. There were however a couple of lifts open and we used them to ease into it. Higher up the snow was not too bad and it started to snow a bit.
Second day was good and a bit more snow again. Wednesday, a further lift in the ‘White Valley’ was open. Good nice runs to enjoy there. Thu/Fri we went all the way to the west slopes higher up which stayed much nicer as hardly anyone used them and they were more protected from the sun, staying colder, firmer for longer. Most runs got wet and slushy in the afternoon, especially the ones close to the resort.
Aomori
Being at the top end of the mail Honshu island, the weather is colder and it was snowing both days here.
ASPAM (Aomori Prefucture Tourism Centre) is dominating Aomori city at Mutsu Bay. Although there is an observation deck on the 14 floor, we did not bother as it was snowing and had poor sight. There are lots of shops and stalls selling local produce.
Just next to is is the Aomori Bay Bridge and at the other end the A-Factory. Shops, restaurants and a Cider maker with cider tasting via loading credit onto a card, then selecting small samples from a machine. Rather expensive for the tiny amount you get.
Also next to A-Factory is the “Wa Rasse”, a museum dedicated to the Nebuta Festival which is held annually.
As always, just walking in the streets can provide many beautiful sights…
Akita
Although a bit windy and some rain, we headed out to the Senshu Park 千秋公園
The main attractions are:
– Turret of Kubota Castle
– Hachiman Akita Shrine
– Ichinomon – 2 Story Wooden Gate
Red Brick Local Museum: Seems to be closed. All shutters down…
Akita dogs originate from here. They are so cute and fluffy… apparently there are Akita dog museums etc. dedicated to that cute breed of dog. A special mentioning for the famous Akita dog Hachiko who waited at the Shibuya train station until his owner returned from work – even after his tragic sudden death.
Did not get to take a pic of an actual Akita dog, but they are everywhere on posters, footpath etc….
With that, we are at the end of another Japan trip. Interesting Aizu-Wakamatsu, ski resort with little snow at the bottom, butok higher up. Whistlesop in Aomori, Akita, Koriyama and Narita. It was also the time of the Coronavirus starting in Japan, but all good & safe.
othmar & wichit's space 