Japan > Nagano – Feb 2023

First skiing trip back to Japan since 2020.

We stayed for the first week of skiing in AIZU at the same place as last time. In 2020, the snow as scarce, but we got some good runs, taking a number of lifts further into the valley. This time around, the snow was plentiful and perfect for us.

Hoshino Resorts Alts Bandai

Shiga Kogen

The second week on the slopes was in Shiga Kogen area in the Nagano prefecture. Joined together this is the largest ski area in Japan. It consists of 18 ski resorts with 48 lifts (but you can buy tickets for individual resorts if you know you want to ski just there). Some resorts can be skied between them. It needs a bit of planning to check where you want to stay as some resorts are rather small. There is a free shuttle bus, but we prefer to spend time on the snow, not waiting for transport. We stayed at the Yakebitaiyama area.

Nagano

We spend the break between to 2 weeks of skiing in Tokyo and mostly in the NAGANO area, where the 1998 Olympics were held.

The most famous attraction in Nagano is the Zenkoji Temple. It is one of the most important and popular temples in Japan. It was founded in the 7th century and stores the first Buddhist statue ever to be brought into Japan.

There are a number of special buildings; memorial pillars, bell tower, war memorial pagoda, below the Sutra Repository (Kyouzō). They also offer special activities like sutra coping.

From Nagano town center, the Zenkoji Street, filled with shops, cafes, art galleries, historic houses, statues etc. leads to the temple.

If you came from the Zenkoji street and passed straight through the temple there at hill is the Zenkoji burial ground; Unjouden Noukotsudou (cremains repository). It is a nice walk up the hill through local neighborhoods. There are a couple of temples on the way, but we are heading for the cemetery and cremains storage halls. This peaceful location allows a beautiful view over Nagano.

Anothr nice temple on the road from the town center is the Saiko-ji Temple.

There are of course a lot to see in Nagana just wandering along its streets…

Matsushiro

Just a short 12km drive by local bus is the old samurai town of MATSUSHIRO.  The town used to have its own castle – a reminder of the days when it was a notable domain of the Sanada Family. Today, only the ruins remain. Matsushiro retains the samurai houses, temples and gardens of its castle town days, has some interesting museums, and even a tunnel complex from World War II.

The Matsushiro Castle which is dating back to the 1460s, was demolished and later destroyed by fire in 1872, leaving only the stone walls which can be seen today. Some buildings, the moat, wooden bridge and the main gates were restored in 2004 to the atmosphere of times past.

From more recent times, towards the end of the WWII, is a network of underground tunnels known as Zozan Underground Imperial Headquarters (Matsushiro Daihonei). The complex of subterranean tunnels were dug by Korean forced-laborers in a bid to provide a sanctuary for the Emperor and the Imperial Japanese government at the end of World War II. The war ended with Japan’s capitulation well before the tunnel was anywhere near ready. About 500 meter long stretch of tunnel can be entered to visit. There is a memorial and a small museum adjacent to the main entrance detailing the brutality of the treatment during the construction workers on the site.

We only spend a few hours here before we took the bus back to Nagano. It is a beautiful town, easily explorable on foot.

Goodbye Nagano

Japan > Aizu/Aomori/Akita – Feb 2020

Aizu-Wakamatsu

We had a few days in this town before heading to the snowfields of ALTS Bandai. Doing a bit of research, we came across some interesting places to visit in Aizu-Wakamatsu.

Place of Byakkotai “White Tiger Force” Harakiri

During the Boshin Civil war, the Byakkotai second brigade, consisting of twenty 16-17 year old boys retreated to the mouth of Tonokuchi-hara, through the secret Takizawa pass. They arrived on Iimoriyama, and from the mouth of the pass saw the tower of Tsurugajo castle engulfed in black smoke. “As the castle falls, so shall we for our lord” said the boys, and with that they committed ritual suicide. Only one of the 20 boys, named Iinuma Sadakichi, attempted suicide too, but was unsuccessful and survived. This place has become well known for the story of the loyalty and tragedy of the Byakkotai Brigade. Twice a year, in the spring and autumn, a memorial service and sword dance is held to comfort the spirits of the dedicated Byakkotai.

After the war, their bodies remained exposed to the elements until permission was finally granted by the imperial government to bury them. A memorial was later erected at Iimori Hill, and all 20 of the Byakkotai members are buried there. 19 gravestones mark the place where the boys were buried. After his death, Iinuma Sadakichi’s ashes were spread on Mount Iimori together on the buried graves of his Byakkotai comrades.

An irrigation weir and cave nearby, drawing its water from lake Inawashiro and cave is the cave where the tragedy of the 20 White Tigers took place.

 

Sazaedo Temple 会津さざえ堂 (円通三匝堂)

A unique temple with a double spiral staircase and no floors. The building, the oldest of its kind, has been designated an Important Cultural Property.

Appearances can be deceiving. From the outside, this pagoda-like temple seems much like any other. But when you enter, you will discover the unique feature of Aizu Sazaedo, where two sets of stairways spiral like the shell of a sea snail, hence its name, Sazaedo or Sea Snail Temple. Its construction is so ingenious that those going up will never meet others going back down.

The term entsu sansodo, meaning “to make three full turns,” refers to the spiral journey up and down. Along the way, devotees would pray at 33 statues of the Buddhist goddes of mercy, Kannon.

The journey up and down the temple is supposed to represent the Saigoku Kannon Pilgrimage to 33 Buddhist temples, which is represented by 33 statues of Kannon along the way.

 

Higashiyama Onsen 東山温泉

An area with a lot of Onsen hotels, many have their best days well behind them, some are left in disrepair. The stream flowing in the center has a few waterfalls and is quite picturesque.

 

Aizu Bukeyashiki 会津武家屋敷

This sprawling complex of rooms served as residences for the samurai’s family, servants, and guests. The Aizu Samurai Mansion, also known as Bukeyashiki, is one of the most complete complexes of its kind anywhere in Japan.

The Aizu Samurai Mansion is a wonderful example of a residence for a samurai, especially one as senior as the chief retainer. The last resident of the Aizu Samurai Mansion was Saigo Tanomo, and as befitting someone of his status, there are expansive rooms and a beautifully kept garden.

While the residence burned to the ground during the Boshin Civil War in 1868, conservationists were able to build an exact replica due to highly detailed blueprints that survived.

 

Tsuruga-jō 鶴ヶ城

When the castle was constructed nearly 600 years ago, it was just a traditional Japanese building. However, many famous Japanese military commanders successfully ruled the castle, as it was a key castle located at the center of the Tohoku Area. Around 400 years ago, the castle tower was built, and the castle was officially named “Tsurugajo Castle” . During the Boshin Civil War that occurred at the end of the E do Period, many Aizu citizens were held inside the castle as it was relentlessly attacked by the Meiji government army for a period of one month. Eventually, the Aizu clan was forced to surrender After the Meiji Period in 1874, Tsurugajo Castle, which was once called impregnable, was completely torn down, except for the stone walls surrounding the perimeters.

The current castle tower was rebuilt in 1965. During Restauration in 2011, the roof tiles were replaced with red coloured ones as the original used to be.

 

Besides the attractions above in Aizu-Wakamatsu, there are of course many other temples, shirnes and some beautiful hiking trails between them.

 

Hoshino Alts Bandai Resort

5 days in the snowfields. On arrival, the resort looked not very inviting in regards to skiing. Lots of green fields, some visible runs with dirt patches, making them unsuitable for skiing. There were however a couple of lifts open and we used them to ease into it. Higher up the snow was not too bad and it started to snow a bit.

Second day was good and a bit more snow again. Wednesday, a further lift in the ‘White Valley’ was open. Good nice runs to enjoy there. Thu/Fri we went all the way to the west slopes higher up which stayed much nicer as hardly anyone used them and they were more protected from the sun, staying colder, firmer for longer. Most runs got wet and slushy in the afternoon, especially the ones close to the resort.

Aomori

Being at the top end of the mail Honshu island, the weather is colder and it was snowing both days here.

ASPAM (Aomori Prefucture Tourism Centre) is dominating Aomori city at Mutsu Bay. Although there is an observation deck on the 14 floor, we did not bother as it was snowing and had poor sight. There are lots of shops and stalls selling local produce.

Just next to is is the Aomori Bay Bridge and at the other end the A-Factory. Shops, restaurants and a Cider maker with cider tasting via loading credit onto a card, then selecting small samples from a machine. Rather expensive for the tiny amount you get.

Also next to A-Factory is the “Wa Rasse”, a museum dedicated to the Nebuta Festival which is held annually.

As always, just walking in the streets can provide many beautiful sights…

 

Akita

Although a bit windy and some rain, we headed out to the Senshu Park 千秋公園

The main attractions are:

– Turret of Kubota Castle

– Hachiman Akita Shrine

– Ichinomon – 2 Story Wooden Gate

Red Brick Local Museum: Seems to be closed. All shutters down…

Akita dogs originate from here. They are so cute and fluffy… apparently there are Akita dog museums etc. dedicated to that cute breed of dog. A special mentioning for the famous Akita dog Hachiko who waited at the Shibuya train station until his owner returned from work – even after his tragic sudden death.

Did not get to take a pic of an actual Akita dog, but they are everywhere on posters, footpath etc….

 

With that, we are at the end of another Japan trip. Interesting Aizu-Wakamatsu, ski resort with little snow at the bottom, butok higher up. Whistlesop in Aomori, Akita, Koriyama and Narita. It was also the time of the Coronavirus starting in Japan, but all good & safe.

Japan > Skiing x 2 – Mar 2019

This year we got some fantastic deals, hence decided to double our skiing and spend 5 days each in 2 resorts; GranDeco in the AIZU Resort Area and APPI Kogen. Adding to this a weekend in Fujisan to admire Mt Fuji and a weekend between the skiing in Sendai to round up the trip.

Mt Fuji

We had seen Mt Fuji before from Hakone on the south side a few years ago. So this time, before our first skiing in the AIZU area we spend a weekend in Fujisan in the Fuji Five Lake area on the north side of Japans highest mountain. We were lucky, Mt Fuji was visible on Saturday until early afternoon. The rest of our stay was overcast and rainy.

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  Mt Fuji framed by the Kanadorii

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  Mt Fuji from Fujisan

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  Mt Fuji from accommodation

There is also a nice viewing platform at the top of the shopping centre by the train station in Fujisan.

The Fujiyoshida Sengen Shrine is in dense forest accessed via a long path lined by stone lanterns under tall cedar trees. The shrine’s main hall is dating back to 1615.

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The Fujiyoshida Sengen Shrine is where traditional climbers started their accent of Mt Fuji from the north. Pilgrims did pray at the temple before passing through the wooden Tori gate at the back and start their walk. These days most climbers start from the 5th Station which effectively halves the distance.

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  Back of shrine: ancient start of Mt Fuji climb

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  Main Hall

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  Front gate

Elevated on the north side of Fujisan is the 5-storied Chureito Pagoda. On a clear day, this location is offering spectacular views of Mt Fuji, especially during the cherry blossom season in spring and in autumn when the leaves change colour.

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SKIING – Part 1 – AIZU > GranDeco

The AIZU Snow Resorts area is in the Fukushima district, but a very safe distance from the cost and the reactor location. This is one of the closest snow resorts from Tokio. Many locals visit for the weekend or even just a few hours of skiing on a day trip. During the week in the shoulder season, there are no queues and plenty of room on the slopes.

The AIZU Snow Resort is made up of 22 individual resorts. Some only have a couple of lifts. We got a very good deal as AIZU Ambassadors as part of their promotion of the AIZU region. We styed at the Daiwa Sport Resort in Urabandai . Unfortunately most information at the hotel was only in Japanese. Google translate and the English version of the websites helped a lot. Some staff speak English, so we kept our eyes out for them if we needed anything. Our hotel had free shuttle buses to 3 resorts, to access the others a hire car would be best.

The hotel has a very nice Onsen (Japanese bath). There is a large bath indoor, sauna etc. and another large bath outdoors set in a rock formation. So relaxing to sit there in the hot water (about 45-47~celcius) with snow flocks gently dancing in the sky…

We spend our skiing in the GranDeco resort.

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The snow was a bit wet and ‘sorbet’ like the first couple of days. Then after a bit colder weather the snow was perfect for us, especially at the top of the mountain.

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  Ice Fishing on frozen lake

When the Onogowa lake is frozen, people are ice-fishing.

Sendai

Sendai is with about 1 million the second largest city north of Tokyo. We arrived by Shinkansen train and were greeted by a network of pedestrian walkways above the busy roads feeding conveniently into the surrounding shopping malls, restaurants and hotels without having to cross any streets.

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  Sendai – Overpasses

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  Sendai

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  Sendai Station

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Aoba Castle Remains

Ok, there is no castle. Parts of the old walls, a guard house and some stones resembling the ground plan of a hall is all that’s left.
Aoba Castle (青葉城, Aobajō) was built in 1600 by the powerful feudal lord Date Masamune. Because of considerations for the castle’s defense, Masamune chose to locate his fortifications on Mount Aoba, 100 meters above the town below.

BUT the trip is well worth it just for the view over the city of Sendai. There is also the monument to Lord Date Masamune on horseback.

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Also at the same location, just a 5 minute stroll, is the prefectural branch shrine of Tokuo’s Yasukuni Shrine, called Gokoku Shrine.

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Zuihoden Mausoleum

Zuihoden (瑞鳳殿, Zuihōden) is the mausoleum of Date Masamune, one of the most powerful feudal lords of the Edo Period. Masamune was the first in a long line of Date lords to rule over Sendai from Aoba Castle. His son and grandson, Date Tadamune and Date Tsunamune, are entombed in nearby mausoleums, while other descendants are laid to rest in less elaborate graves and tombs.

Zuihoden was designed in the ornate style of the Momoyama Period. It features intricate woodwork and a rich variety of vivid colors. Masamune’s son and grandson are entombed in smaller mausoleums designed in the same style.

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Massive cedar trees surround the paths in the area, and are meant to symbolize the long history of the Date clan. A museum beside the Zuihoden main building shows some of the personal artifacts of the Date family, and even some specimens of their bones and hair.

SKIING – Part 2 > APPI

A couple of trains to Appi Kogen Station where we were picked up by Kayoko, the host of our accommodation ‘Mutti’s’. She also drove us every day the short trip to the slopes and back. If you like delicious Japanese food, this is the place to stay. Breakfast and dinner; fresh local ingredients perfectly balanced and expertly prepared and presented. So much food, glorious food…

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  Appi Kogen Station

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  Mutti’s

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  Mutti’s delicious foos

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  Mutti’s

“Happy in Appi”…! Appi is bigger than GranDeco, more lifts, more and longer runs. The first 2 days was a bit war with the snow a bit soft, the third day was windy and heavily snowing. Almost no visibility and deep new snow made it difficult for us amateurs. With all the fresh snow, the final 2 days were just perfect skiing!

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That’s it for another skiing trip.

Japan > Chugoku – Sept 2018

We were staying in Osaka again. Having explored Osaka and the surrounding areas on our last visit, we are heading a bit further west this time into the Chugoku area. The main places visited were Kurashiki, Okayama, Miyajima and Hiroshima.

The ‘floating’ Torii in Miyajima

Kurashiki is probably best known for the Bikan Historical Quarters. Most of the historical storehouses along the picturesque canal have been converted into restaurants, cafes and shops to cater for the tourists flocking there this days. On the way there we first stopped by the Kanryuji temple for a brief visit.

Kanryuji temple

Kanryuji temple

Kanryuji temple

Kanryuji temple

  The Bikan area, dating back over 300 years, is where the old merchant storehouses were lining the canal. Whilst the old trade centre is well preserved, many houses are concerted into cafes, shops and art galleries. Pulled rickshaws offer tourists rides along the canal and boat rides in the canal.

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  From there it is only a short train ride to Okayama. Okayama is home to the famous Korakuen Garden, ranked as one of the three best landscaped gardens in Japan.

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The Okayama Castle, also known as the ‘Crow’ Castle due to its black exterior, is a 1966 reconstruction of the original castle dating back to 1597.

On the final day we made good use of our JR Pass again and went to the island of Miyajima (the ferry is included in the pass). Miyajima is famous for its ‘floating’ Torii during high tide. During low tide, you can walk to it, but that is of course less picturesque, so check out the tide times and plan your visit accordingly. There are also a number of other interesting temples and pagodas too see. Around town are some ‘wild’ deer, used to the masses of tourists. Oysters are a speciality here and can be bought everywhere.

  The final stop is rather sobering; Hiroshima. Today again a vibrant city, full of life, when death and destruction with the first atomic bomb in 1945 is still in living memory. There are the remains of the Atomic Bomb Dome which was the place over which the bomb detonated. Across is the Peace Memorial Park with a number of memorials, monuments and museums reminding us of the destruction the bomb caused. The museum (undergoing renovation work) shows the explosion and aftermath not only with a lot of interesting exhibits, but also in a very personal way by survivors telling their stories on videos.

The purpose of the Peace Memorial Park is not only to remember the victims, but also a reminder of the horrors of nuclear war and to advocate world peace.

  Whist the Peace Memorial Park and a visit to the excellent museum are a ‘must see’ destination for most who visit Hiroshima, there are a number of other museums and parks as well as the re-build Hiroshima ‘Carp’ Castle to see.

The Paper Crane Monument

School Students at the Hiroshima Peace Memorial remembering

history and the victims with a minute of silence.

Japan > Kumano Kodo – Sept 2018

The Kumano Kodo is on the Kii Hanto peninsula, the largest peninsula of Japan. The Kumano Kodo are a number of ancient Pilgrimage trails dating back over 1,000 year, leading to the sacred Kumano Hongu Taisha, the most important of the Three Grand Shrines of Kumano. The other two are the Kumano Hayatama Taisha and the Kumano Nachi Taisha.

Kumano Kodo trails. The symbol of the area is a 3-legged Crow.

The itinerary we planned was a 6-day (5-night) route starting in Kii-Tanabe.

The local tourism office has really great resources on the webpage. Itinerary with descriptions for each day, different routes, maps, audio guides, videos, bus timetables, accommodation and luggage transfer booking etc.:  http://www.tb-kumano.jp/en/kumano-kodo/

Day 1: Tii-Tanabe > Takijiri-oji > Takahara

After travelling from Osaka to Tii-Tanabe via bus, a quick lunch and picking up detailed maps and the all-important ‘stamp-passport’, then another bus to Kakijiri and we were ready to take the first stage of the treck. The distance was only 3.7km, but with a steep ascent (300m in the first 1km!) a rather strenuous start to the hike. Whist the temperature was pleasant, the high humidity made the climb that extra harder.

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  Kumano – UNESCO listed trail

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  Start by Katijiri-oji

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  Yes we carried our own bags!

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  Kumano path

Around 15 minutes into the climb there are some large boulders. Some form a ‘cave’ called ‘Tainai-kuguri‘. You can test your faith by climbing through the crack at the far end. We managed to pass through, just… No forced diet just yet.

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The walk is mostly in the forest. There are however a few nice spots allowing for panoramic views of the area around.

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  Sutra Mound

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The trail is very good signed out with numbered markers every 500 metres. There are additional signed at intersections and even signed ‘Not Kumano path’ to ensure the right path is taken. Along the path are numerous little shrines and temples. The memorial stamps for the Kumano Passport are kept in their own little houses.

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  Kumano Marker 14

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  Stamping the Kumano Passport

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  Shrine and Stamp House

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  Shrine on the way

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  Shrine along the path

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  Kumano Marker 11

Pre-booking accommodation is important as there are only limited guesthouses along the path. They generally offer Japanese style accommodation; futon to sleep on and Onsen style Japanese shared bath.

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  View from terrace

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  Japanese futon room

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  Onsen style bathroom

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  Sunset…

The meals served in all accommodations (Dinner & Breakfast) were delicious local style set menus with countless little dishes of delicate, healthy, delicious local cuisine.

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  Dinner

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  Dinner

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  Dinner – side dish

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  Breakfast

Day 2: Takahara > Tsugizakura-oji

Day 2 started with a view down to the beautiful mist-filled valley. The program was a full day hiking for about 13km with about 830m in elevation gain and 650m in loss, but over a longer distance then yesterday. The weather was still very humid, but with a light breeze easier to walk. The trail was again mostly in the forest, lots of shrines and ‘stone men’ along the path.

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  Morning mist

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  Rice sheafs

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  ‘Stone men’

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  Gyuba-doji (left) & Ennogyoja (right)

Along the way we pass through some local villages and the graveyard of the Nonagase and Yokoya Clan.

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In the shrine grove of Tsugizakura-oji are these massive Nonaka-no-Ipposugi cedar trees. Some have up to 8m circumference and are believed to be 800 years old. Just look at the size of these trees.

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Day 3: Tsugizakura-oji > Kumano Hongu (Yunomine Onsen)

After another nice breakfast (and making some new 4-legged horned friends) the longest leg of the walk was ahead of us. The walk was about 22km, mostly slightly downhill, but there were a couple of steep climbs ahead. All that would have been fine, except it was raining all day. In the morning a light drizzle, but pouring down from lunchtime onwards. Never less we soldered on to Kumano Hongu. Just time for one quick picture of the main temple of the walk, walked on and with only a few minutes spare made it to the bus to our accommodation in Yunomine Onsen.

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  Our new friends

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  Local art or ‘kitsch’

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  One of many local shrines

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  Re-forestation

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  Kumano Hongu Taisha

Day 4: Hongu > Koguchi

We did complete one of the Sacred Kumano Trails. The next 2 days would be a second trail of about 30km with the second day entailing a very steep climb of 800m in just 5km. The forecast was more rain in the afternoon and our cloth and walking boots soaked from yesterdays’ walk in the rain, still not completely dry.

Change of Plan.

We decided to follow the second Kumano path via the local buses and spend the time visiting the 3 key temples the Kumano trails are all about. After all, what is the point in walking in the rain and not being able to visit and explore the temples, shrines and scenery?

We did spend the night in Yunomine Onsen with natural warm springs.

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  Interesting footwear

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Back to Hongu to take a closer look at the Kumano Hongu Taisha.

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The current site was set up in 1889 after a devastating flood destroyed the old location at Oyunohara nearby. At the entrance is the world’s largest Torii. It is 33.9m tall and 42m wide.

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  Oyunohara site

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  Oyunohara site

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  Oyunohara site

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  Otorii

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Day 5: Koguchi > Kumano Nachi Taisha

After staying mostly dry yesterday and enjoying actually having time to explore some of the key sights, and more rain forecast, we decided to explore more and travel by bus especially as the last hike would have entailed a very steep climb.

The second of the 3 sacred temples is in Shingu: Kumano Hayatama Taisha. This temple is mostly in a shade of Vermillion.

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Finally off to the third of the three sacred temples, the Kumano Nachi Taisha. Nachisan is also famous for its red pagoda and waterfall, with 133m the tallest single drop waterfall in Japan.

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A final night in Nachisan before returning back to Osaka by train.

Whilst we did not walk the full 5 days as planned, I think we made the right decision:

• We did complete 1 of the official Kumano trails.
• We did have enough time to visit and explore all 3 of the key sacred temples.
• We did not over exhaust ourselves, after all is was a holiday, not an endurance camp.