The Kumano Kodo is on the Kii Hanto peninsula, the largest peninsula of Japan. The Kumano Kodo are a number of ancient Pilgrimage trails dating back over 1,000 year, leading to the sacred Kumano Hongu Taisha, the most important of the Three Grand Shrines of Kumano. The other two are the Kumano Hayatama Taisha and the Kumano Nachi Taisha.
The itinerary we planned was a 6-day (5-night) route starting in Kii-Tanabe.
The local tourism office has really great resources on the webpage. Itinerary with descriptions for each day, different routes, maps, audio guides, videos, bus timetables, accommodation and luggage transfer booking etc.: http://www.tb-kumano.jp/en/kumano-kodo/
Day 1: Tii-Tanabe > Takijiri-oji > Takahara
After travelling from Osaka to Tii-Tanabe via bus, a quick lunch and picking up detailed maps and the all-important ‘stamp-passport’, then another bus to Kakijiri and we were ready to take the first stage of the treck. The distance was only 3.7km, but with a steep ascent (300m in the first 1km!) a rather strenuous start to the hike. Whist the temperature was pleasant, the high humidity made the climb that extra harder.
Kumano – UNESCO listed trail 
Start by Katijiri-oji 
Yes we carried our own bags! 
Kumano path
Around 15 minutes into the climb there are some large boulders. Some form a ‘cave’ called ‘Tainai-kuguri‘. You can test your faith by climbing through the crack at the far end. We managed to pass through, just… No forced diet just yet.
The walk is mostly in the forest. There are however a few nice spots allowing for panoramic views of the area around.
Sutra Mound 
The trail is very good signed out with numbered markers every 500 metres. There are additional signed at intersections and even signed ‘Not Kumano path’ to ensure the right path is taken. Along the path are numerous little shrines and temples. The memorial stamps for the Kumano Passport are kept in their own little houses.
Kumano Marker 14 
Stamping the Kumano Passport 
Shrine and Stamp House 
Shrine on the way 
Shrine along the path 
Kumano Marker 11
Pre-booking accommodation is important as there are only limited guesthouses along the path. They generally offer Japanese style accommodation; futon to sleep on and Onsen style Japanese shared bath.
View from terrace 
Japanese futon room 
Onsen style bathroom 
Sunset…
The meals served in all accommodations (Dinner & Breakfast) were delicious local style set menus with countless little dishes of delicate, healthy, delicious local cuisine.
Dinner 
Dinner 
Dinner – side dish 
Breakfast
Day 2: Takahara > Tsugizakura-oji
Day 2 started with a view down to the beautiful mist-filled valley. The program was a full day hiking for about 13km with about 830m in elevation gain and 650m in loss, but over a longer distance then yesterday. The weather was still very humid, but with a light breeze easier to walk. The trail was again mostly in the forest, lots of shrines and ‘stone men’ along the path.
Morning mist 
Rice sheafs 
‘Stone men’ 
Gyuba-doji (left) & Ennogyoja (right)
Along the way we pass through some local villages and the graveyard of the Nonagase and Yokoya Clan.
In the shrine grove of Tsugizakura-oji are these massive Nonaka-no-Ipposugi cedar trees. Some have up to 8m circumference and are believed to be 800 years old. Just look at the size of these trees.
Day 3: Tsugizakura-oji > Kumano Hongu (Yunomine Onsen)
After another nice breakfast (and making some new 4-legged horned friends) the longest leg of the walk was ahead of us. The walk was about 22km, mostly slightly downhill, but there were a couple of steep climbs ahead. All that would have been fine, except it was raining all day. In the morning a light drizzle, but pouring down from lunchtime onwards. Never less we soldered on to Kumano Hongu. Just time for one quick picture of the main temple of the walk, walked on and with only a few minutes spare made it to the bus to our accommodation in Yunomine Onsen.
Our new friends 
Local art or ‘kitsch’ 
One of many local shrines 
Re-forestation 
Kumano Hongu Taisha
Day 4: Hongu > Koguchi
We did complete one of the Sacred Kumano Trails. The next 2 days would be a second trail of about 30km with the second day entailing a very steep climb of 800m in just 5km. The forecast was more rain in the afternoon and our cloth and walking boots soaked from yesterdays’ walk in the rain, still not completely dry.
Change of Plan.
We decided to follow the second Kumano path via the local buses and spend the time visiting the 3 key temples the Kumano trails are all about. After all, what is the point in walking in the rain and not being able to visit and explore the temples, shrines and scenery?
We did spend the night in Yunomine Onsen with natural warm springs.
Interesting footwear 
Back to Hongu to take a closer look at the Kumano Hongu Taisha.
The current site was set up in 1889 after a devastating flood destroyed the old location at Oyunohara nearby. At the entrance is the world’s largest Torii. It is 33.9m tall and 42m wide.
Oyunohara site 
Oyunohara site 
Oyunohara site 
Otorii 
Day 5: Koguchi > Kumano Nachi Taisha
After staying mostly dry yesterday and enjoying actually having time to explore some of the key sights, and more rain forecast, we decided to explore more and travel by bus especially as the last hike would have entailed a very steep climb.
The second of the 3 sacred temples is in Shingu: Kumano Hayatama Taisha. This temple is mostly in a shade of Vermillion.
Finally off to the third of the three sacred temples, the Kumano Nachi Taisha. Nachisan is also famous for its red pagoda and waterfall, with 133m the tallest single drop waterfall in Japan.
A final night in Nachisan before returning back to Osaka by train.
Whilst we did not walk the full 5 days as planned, I think we made the right decision:
- We did complete 1 of the official Kumano trails.
- We did have enough time to visit and explore all 3 of the key sacred temples.
- We did not over exhaust ourselves, after all is was a holiday, not an endurance camp.
othmar & wichit's space 