Ladakh is the most northernly, across the Himalayas, union territory (state) in India. The capital is Leh at an altitude of 3,500m. Some precautions may should be taken to prevent altitude sickness; take time to acclimatise, avoid alcohol etc. It seems younger, fit people seem more prone to it, probably as they push themselves too much.
Ladakh is most famous for adventure activities in breathtaking landscapes and super clear rivers, lakes and skies. Some of the world’s highest motorable mountain passes are also here. Being part of the Tibet plateau, there are also stunning Buddhist Monasteries and festivals.
The town center of Leh is laid back, catering for tourists and adventurers. There are many cafes and restaurants, bazars and souvenir shops. There are of course also some museums and temples to visit.
During the off-season, up to 80% of the people are leaving and many shops are closed.
Leh Palace, also known as Lachen Palkar Palace is a 9 story former royal palace dating back to around 1600. A museum with artefacts dating back about 450 years can also be visited. On the same hill are also the Namgyal Tesmo Monastery and Castle.
Just outside of Leh is the Shanti Stupa. The Stupa offers panoramic views over Leh. It was built by a Japanese Buddhist named Bhikshu Gyomyo Nakamura in 1991. The stupa was to mark the completion of 2500 years of Buddhism and to promote world peace. This peace pagoda aims to spread peace, positivity, and the preaching of Buddha.
About 8km south of Leh, just below the southern end of the Leh airport runway, is the Spituk Monastery, also known as Spituk Gompa or Pethup Gompa. This monastery is dating back to the 11th century. The monastery is home to up to 100 monks, and a giant statue of Kali (unveiled during an annual festival).
About 20km south-east of Leh is Thiksey Monastery. It is situated on a hill overlooking the Indus Valley with a great view of the magnificent Stok range. This is a great place to go early and join the monks in their morning prayer chants. It has a very communal feel.
The youngest of the monks, sleep still in their eyes, chant loudly, if only to keep themselves from dozing off, while the older monks keep a watchful eye on them. Their chanting is interrupted to serving butter tea to everyone including visitors, no doubt they are grateful for the distraction and being able to stretch their legs.
Magnetic Hill is a place where the layout of the surrounding land produces an optical illusion, making a slight downhill slope appear to be an uphill slope.
Gurudwara Pathar Sahib, most revered place where Guru Nanak Dev ji, founder of the Sikh religion is believed to have conquered a demon. Legend has it that once Guru Nakak ji was meditating at this place and a demon had thrown a big rock to obstruct his prayers but the boulder turned into soft wax that failed to harm him, seeing this the demon asked for penance for his deed and Guru Nanak ji forgave him. The boulder with the imprint of the body of Guru Nanak Dev and the footprint of the demon is on display in Gurdwara Pathar Sahib.
The Hall of Fame near Leh is run by the Indian Army, this museum/war memorial houses weapons, history exhibits & a souvenir shop.
The Confluence of Indus & Zanskar rivers is a very pretty spot. The water is so clear and fresh. This is also a popular spot for river rafting.
We drove further up the Zanskar river to a beautiful swimming spot (although too cold for us to go into the crystal-clear water) with a fine sand beach.
We kept driving up the Zanskar river and then follow the Markha Tokpo up to the Tsarik campsite. From here we started an 11km hike to the Sara campsite where we spend the night camping. The hike was easy, more a walk along the dirt-road. It was easy to follow and had only a 200m altitude gain.
At the campsite, in the middle of nowhere, we got the best wi-fi connection anywhere in Ladakh. Here the food was prepared fresh from scratch. There was an option to sleep in the tents provided or indoors in a communal room. Although it was cold, we choose the tents. With the blankets provided, it was actually not that cold, and we had a good night’s sleep.
The next day, we had the option to walk back or go by car. Of course, we choose to walk back :).
Being well enough acclimaticed, it was time to head further up north and to higher altitude. To get there, we had first to cross one of the highest motorable passes in the world, the mighty Khardung La pass at 5,360m altitude. The pass is on the Ladakh range, 39km north of Leh, and connects the Indus river valley and the Shyok river valley. It also forms the gateway to the Nubra valley, beyond which lies the Siachen Glacier.
Along the Shyok river valley we stopped at the Hunder Sand Dune, home of the Bactrian camels.
Diskit Monastery is dating back to the 14th century.
We then drove to Turtuk, a small village where we can witness Balti culture. This is as far as we as non-Indians were allowed to drive before the border to Pakistan.
The former Turtuk Palace, now a museum. The current Raja, Mohammad Khan Kacho of the Yabgo Dynasty is welcoming visitors.
Now along the Nubra valley, the two main stops were the Samstanling Monastery dating back to 1842, and the Panamik Hot Spring. The spring is one of the only hot springs in the country. The water is a high amount of Sulfur. Despite the water being quite hot, people (including us) take a dip in the water.
Samstanling Monastery
Panamik Hot Spring
We took another long drive in this spectacular landscape, across mountains towards the Chinese border to the Pangong Tso lake at 4,250m altitude, where we spend the night. It is said to be the highest saltwater lake in the world. Despite being saline, the lake freezes in winter. About 40% of the lake is in India, the rest in China, although part of the lake is disputed territory.
Pangong Tso lake
The way back to Leh was once more over one of the highest motorable mountain passes in the world, the Chang La pass at 5,350m altitude.
Travelling in Ladakh entails a lot of time on the road. We had an excellent driver to took us safely across some dangerous stretches with deathly cliffs falling off the unsealed roads.
Dangerous, loose rocks were removed. The road was free again after a couple of hours.
A truck slipped off the road earlier that morning. Luckily it stuck and did not slide down into the valley. No one was injured.
A camp where the road workers stay. It is cold and windy up there, hard working and living conditions.
Not surprisingly given many of the borders in the region are disputed, there are many army bases along each of the valleys. Taking pictures is of course prohibited… The army is an important provider of jobs for the locals.
Collage of locally inspired sculptures in Leh.
othmar & wichit's space 