Myanmar (Burma) – Oct/Nov 2017

After the opening up to tourism, we decided to visit Myanmar on our way to Chiang Mai in Thailand. There are a few areas where tourists can travel independently and have well connected infrastructure. We decided to visit 3 areas, allowing plenty of time to explore each place and have time to relax (rather than rushing around).

We visited Yangon, Bagan and Mandalay (separate posts). Although we were looking at Inle Lake, but decided to keep that for next time…

So here are some general observations:

Arriving from the airport, the landscape and buildings at the fringes reminded us clearly of Thailand. Getting closer to the city centre, the Colonial heritage buildings, whilst many still derelict, are starting to dominate the cityscape.

Myanmar is very safe and the locals are very friendly and helpful. English is no generally problem in tourist areas.

The ‘Longyi‘ a sarong like piece of clothing, is traditional and widely worn by man and women. It is very versatile and can be very stylish.

Longyi – still worn a lot

Also everywhere people, mostly children and women, but also some men) are wearing ‘Thanaka’ on their faces (children also on arms). Thanaka is a traditional paste made from ground bark and water. It is used as a cosmetic decoration, but also to protect against the sun and is supposed to help clear the skin and protect against acne and promotes smooth skin.

Locals with red-stained teeth and rust-brown/red-splattered footpath (and the actual spitting) are very common. The reason is chewing Betel Nut is very popular in Myanmar, especially in Yangon. In India they call it ‘paan’ but here in Myanmar it is ‘Kun-ya’.

Basically it is made up of Areca Nut (the actual name for betel nut), slaked lime (calcium hydroxide) and catechu, which is then wrapped in the betel leave. the exact ingredients vary from staff to stall. Some include tabaco or chilli or other spices.

Being a dominantly Buddhist country, seeing monks in their orange robes is expected. What was different here is the amount of nuns in the streets. Many of then just girls. They go from house-to-house and business asking for alms. In some markets, a small group or individual nuns were everywhere and shopkeepers attending (giving something or sending them away) to them every few minutes. The same on the streets, we observed a house where at least 5 groups came to the same house in an hour. Also ‘money trees’ and cash collections for temples were at many street corners with blaring music.

Monks in Bagan

Nuns in Mandalay

Nuns in Yangon

‘Money Trees’

Food is generally not that spicy for a southeastern country. Curries don’t normally contain coconut milk/cream.
Mohinga – vermicelli noodles in fish-stock…
Lahpet – Fermented tea leaves salad with cabbage, tomatoes and crunchy bits for texture. salad with cabbage, tomatoes and crunchy bits for texture.
Local in Bagan, Tamarind flakes/discs are offered after meals as nice sweets. You might be given some of these little brown disks wrapped in white tissue. Texture is kind of thin pasta dough lightly dried; soft but firm enough to hold their shape. You can’t eat just one. One after the next is disappearing in your mouth. Someone is playfully named these “Burmese crack”. The best brand are Myin Mo Oo (green lettering on clear plastic bags) or Min Yar Zar (red lettering).

The roads are generally in good conditions, but can get congested during peak hour and trips can take much longer than one would think. Interesting to note, cars are right-hand driven and driving on the right side of the road, so basically he driver is sitting on the curb side, a bit hard for overtaking… and no motorcycles in Yangon. Apparently a high ranking officer’s car got hit by one…! Traffic can look very chaotic during rush hour, Although you hear car horns all over, but it all is so relaxed. It is just a simple signal ‘careful I am here’ and cars merge easily without hassle.