The Danish capital was the stating point of this cruise. We arrived 3 days early to get over the long flight and get to know Copenhagen a bit better. On the arrival day we had some light rain. The transfer from the airport to our hotel was very efficient via the public transport system. Trains have specific carriages for the many bicycles Danes use to get around. As a general observation, bicycles are much better utelised in the Baltic countries; the cities (and country sides) are rather flat and due to the high taxes, petrol rather expensive. Roads have lanes, or as in Copenhagen even lines separated between the road and footpath.
We took a free walking tour on the first day, then, having done some research on what we want to see, explored on our own. The walking tour started from the City Hall Square and gave us a good oversight of central Copenhagen plus a bit of history and an insight into Danish modern life. The world famous Tivoli Garden, the oldest or second oldest amusement park in the world still open today is just across the road.
Byret – Courthouse: Originally built as a combined city hall and courthouse, it now serves as the seat of the District Court of Copenhagen. The court house is facing the Nytorv (new market), which leads to the Gammeltorv (old market) and the Strøget (Pedestrian zone) back to the City Hall.
The Christiansborg Palace (the first palace was build in 1733-38, today you see the third palace in this place dating back to the 1920) is the seat of the Danish Parliament (Folketinget), the Prime Minister’s Office and the Supreme Court. Also, several parts of the palace are used by the monarchy, including the Royal Reception Rooms, the Palace Chapel and the Royal Stables.
Nyhavn (literally: New Harbour) is a 17th-century waterfront, canal and entertainment district is lined by brightly coloured 17th and early 18th century townhouses and bars, cafes and restaurants. Serving as a “heritage harbour”, the canal has many historical wooden ships.
Amalienborg is the winter home of the Danish Royal Family. It consists of four identical classical palace façades with rococo interiors around an octagonal courtyard; in the centre of the square is a monumental equestrian statue of Amalienborg’s founder, King Frederick V. Amalienborg was originally built for four noble families; however, when Christiansborg Palace burned in February 1794, the royal family bought the palaces and moved in. Over the years various kings and their families have resided in the four different palaces.
The Change of Guard takes place every day and is worth hanging around for.
There are a few police officers telling people where to stand and direct them a bit around. We got a front row view of the ceremony, which takes about 45 minutes. Other than that, there are no barricades or cordoned off areas. This reinforces the closeness between the royal family and its people, there is much less of the stuffy above the ordinary people feeling. Given the flag was waving on the residence of the crown prince, he seemed to be in residence. One could almost go up to the front door.
Frederik’s Church popularly known as The Marble Church and with 31 meters, has the largest dom in Scandinavia. The charge was designed in 1740, but due to budget cuts the church was left incomplete and, in spite of several initiatives to complete it, stood as a ruin for nearly 150 years. Due to financial restrictions, the original plans for the church to be built almost entirely from marble were discarded, and instead constructed with limestone. The church was finally opened to the public on August 19, 1894.
The Copenhagen Opera House is the national opera house of Denmark, and among the most modern opera houses in the world. It is also one of the most expensive opera houses ever built with construction costs well over US$500 million.
What would a trip to Copenhagen be without seeing the ‘Little Mermaid’? Well it is little in deed and there are many much more beautiful sculptures around town. I guess it is the story around it and clever marketing by the tourist association…
Nearby are also the Gefion Fountain, a bronze fountain completed in 1908, depicting Norse goddess Gefion plowing the sea with 4 oxen, and the waterfront buildings along Larsen Place.
On the way back to the centre, we walked towards Rosenborg Castle. The castle was originally built as a country summerhouse in 1606 and is an example of Christian IV’s many architectural projects. It was built in the Dutch Renaissance style, typical of Danish buildings during this period, and has been expanded several times, finally evolving into its present condition by the year 1624.
The castle is surrounded by 3 large parks, the most famous one is the Rosenborg Castle Garden, which is the country’s oldest royal garden.Today, the gardens are a popular retreat for the people of Copenhagen, and attract an estimated 2.5 million visitors every year. Besides the roses, which give the park its name, there is also a statue of Hans Christian Anderson, probably the cities most famous citizen.
The last attraction for today, the Round Tower. The tower was build as an observatory and is part of the Trinitatis Church and University Complex which also provided the scholars of the time with a university chapel.
Today the Round Tower serves as an observation tower, a public astronomical observatory, an exhibition and concert venue and a historical monument.
Across to Christiana. First climb we climbed to the top of the tower of the Church of Our Saviour. The uniqueness is that the spiral staircase on the top part of the turret is on the outside. The climb to the top is steep, but the view from up there is an uninterrupted 360 decree panorama of Copenhagen. Well worth the effort.
Don’t forget to visit the church inside too and turn around. An exquisite organ awaits, nestled in beautiful carved dark wood.
A short walk from there is the Freetown of Christiana, the ‘hippy colony’, or more officially, a self-proclaimed autonomous neighbourhood of about 850 residents, covering 34 hectares. Derelict, neglected space with a fair bit of commercial overtones. A marked, restaurants and bars etc. the centerpiece, ‘Pusher’ street, where the ‘soft’ drugs are openly sold and bought. No photons allowed of course as theses drugs are still illegal, although tolerated. The shops are basically market stands with army camouflage nets halfway down to cover the faces of the sellers. Most of them also wear dark sunglasses or ski masks to cover their identities. Lots of people hanging around, drinking, smoking and chilling out.
There are many tour operators offering Boat Tours around the many canals in Copenhagen. An Alternative is to take a ride on the Water Bus, basically a ferry, and is part of the public transport system.
Whist the waterbus will not go into the small canals, a view along the main canal gives a great view from the water and many of the modern building along its shore.
The Secret to Danish Happiness
There’s a concept in Danish called ‘hygge’, which is about reveling in life’s little pleasures: lighting a candle, drinking a glass of wine, being still and feeling contentment.
The Danish have a deep contentment with themselves and with their lives, which creates a solidarity and makes people more trusting of one another and less stressed.